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The award-winning Mago is a champion for the demands of elite climbing. The downturned last, X-tension active randing, and XS Grip2 rubber provide ultimate power and stick for front pointing on steep and overhanging climbs. Lace-up closure and Microsuede fabric in the toe area provide topnotch fit and control while minimizing stretch in areas where precision is paramount. The Mago’s sensitivity to the rock allows climbers to feel subtle cues of otherwise invisible contours. This shoe is best for high-end climbers who thrive on technical maneuvers and hard routes.
SizingSCARPA Sizing Chart
Measure your foot with a ruler, using cm or inches; convert to Euro or US using this chart. If you need mondo sizing, please refer to the SCARPA chart on this page/tab. We recommend you purchase two sizes, the size you think you are plus one .5 size bigger for fit testing at home. As long as the products are in like new condition and the packaging is 100% intact, we will credit you for the returned product.
General fitting rules depend on the product's intended use... follow the appropriate guidelines below for best results.
- The bigger/heavier/more supportive the product, the more you may want to upsize .5 - 1full size. Lighter, softer, more supple shoes can be sized closer to your measured size.
- Note: SCARPA Plastic mountain boots all use UK sizing; UK converts easily: 1 full size smaller than US men's size, 2 sizes smaller than US women's size.
- Try on with appropriate socks for your usage. The bigger the boot, the more appropriate a bigger sock (sounds crazy, huh?)
- If you use orthotics or already have aftermarket footbeds, measure against the standard footbed in boot. Fit into boot for sizing/fitting the boot.
- Best to try on at the end of the day when your feet are larger/swollen, than when your feet are fresh to ensure good fit after a long day.
- Lacing can play an incredibly important part of a good fit. Be sure to play with lacing when analyzing fit.
- Make sure your heel isn't slipping.
- Make sure your toes aren't hitting the end.
**Approach shoes may be sized smaller for performance purposes but beware... small shoes are really uncomfortable on the trail.
Rock climbing shoes
- From your measured size, you'll want to consider downsizing .5 - 2 full sizes. The flatter the shoe, the closer to your measured size; the more downturned/aggressive the shoe, the more you'll want to downsize.
- The best fit is comparative between sizes and only you will be able to judge that, though an experience climber could offer good insights to your fit.
- If it feels painful, it may break in... or it may not.
- Pain sucks as a rule of thumb though and makes climbing miserable.
- Only you can judge what's 'acceptable' discomfort.
- Good fitting rock shoes shouldn't necessarily be 'comfortable' by walking/running shoe standards.
- Look for looseness/bagginess in the toes and heel. Bagginess can mean 'slop' when climbing with feet perspiring, etc.
- Toes should completely fill the toebox.
- Heel should feel solid; like they won't pull off if heel hooking.
- Any foot movement in new shoes will mean sloppy fit when broken in.
- From your measured foot, convert to US size using the scale. Translate the US size to Mondo size using the SCARPA mondo scale (not 'true' mondo conversion)
- Shell fit: taking liner out of the shell and inserting foot, toes touching end of shell but completely flat.
- Should have 1.5 - 2 fingers of space behind heel and heel of shell (between 14mm - 20mm)
- Too little space = go up one shell
- Too much space = go down one shell
- If not sure... fit test BOTH shell sizes
- Put on a ski sock for gosh sake!
- Use and orthotic? Put it the boot (after taking out the standard footbed).
- Put foot in boot AND BUCKLE IT! You can not tell a boot fit without buckling it
- This will pull your heel back into the heel pocket, relieving cramped toe space
- Boots do pack out! A 'comfy' fit when new will mean slop later.
- Regardless, your toes should NOT be pressed against the end of the liner
- Get your Intuition liners molded! This provides THE BEST FIT available.
- Any minor pressure points or space will be eliminated by molding
- Find an experience SCARPA dealer for fitting/molding
- Boot fitting is an incredible service and generally requires a service fee of varying amounts... it's worth it though!
More good information fitting available here.
- Upper: Suede/Microsuede
- Midsole: X-tension™ system
- Sole: Vibram® XS Grip2; 3.5 mm
- Last: FH
- Sizes: 35 - 45 (half sizes)
- Weight: 225g; 8oz (1/2 pair size 40.5)
- Color: Apple Green
- Product Code: 70011/501
Submit A Review
Anonymous Oct 15, 2013
Just ordered my second pair of Magos. I definitely found my perfect rock shoes. High sensitivity and stiffness for small crimps and hard slabs. Mago´s a must on granite climbing.
Tyler Willcutt Sep 27, 2013
The Mago fit right out the box and formed to my feet within the first few routes. This is my go to shoe for all styles, but it's a perfect steep climbing shoe. The toe is incredibly sensitive, along with the best heel I've seen. You will find yourself comfortable on a technical face or the steepest caves... I guarantee it.
Anonymous Jul 18, 2012
The Scarpa Mago is the perfect combination of power and sensitivity. You can pull of of tiny holds and edge without worry of not feeling the hold, or not being able to use it. The thin heel provides amazing heel hooking. And as always, the lace-up is a fine touch to tie the perfect fit.
Anonymous Apr 18, 2012
Great Shoe, and great performance, it doesn't know how to die. I have this shoe for ages now, but it don't want to die! :D Well I have two of them one new, one old, and from four meters away you couldn't tell which one is new :P I'm using it in my newest video http://vimeo.com/39876274
Anonymous Jan 6, 2012
The Magos have quickly become my go-to steep climbing shoe, thanks to their superb sensitivity combined with wicked heel-hooking precision. I have struggled for many years to find a shoe that fits my heel perfectly -- the Magos have provided a solution. They turn my feet into steep climbing paws. An awesome shoe.
- Anonymous Oct 15, 2013