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Photo:

Palmer Larsen

Palmer Larsen


Climb

Date Of Birth: September 10

Hometown: Draper, UT

Current Location: SLC, UT

Favorite Zone: Millcreek Canyon

Proudest Achievement: The Bleeding (5.14b)

Favorite Advocacy Org: SLCA


Biography

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My passion in climbing lies in the ongoing development of myself into a better athlete and consequently a better person. I've always been drawn to the mental/technical side of climbing and have excelled in those components much before my physical strength caught up. I primarily boulder, sport climb, and compete both nationally and internationally. I enjoy pushing myself both outdoors and in competitions and those experiences have taught me a lot about the importance of finding that right state of mind, along with unwavering confidence in myself to perform my best. At the same time, I've learned that you by no means can I control everything, if anything, when I climb, many factors have to line up for everything to go right. The true magic in climbing is all the things that aren't the actual climbing. The full value of this sport is truly incredible, and I think unmatched in any other sport. The ability to travel, learn new cultures, explore nature, take care of nature, learn about oneself and those close to you, compete at an Olympic/world level while also finding isolation in those magical "secret" crags we all have. And maybe most importantly is learning to accept failure as a way of learning and getting better in the pursuit we all love. I now am developing my climbing passion through coaching the Momentum climbing team and teaching young athletes and young adults athletes all of these lessons I have learned in my mere 10 years of climbing. I also am constantly learning more about my own climbing style and what it takes to perform at a high level in sport and bouldering competition and outdoor rock climbing. The ongoing cycle of growth and development and seeing the gains on the other side keep me motivated to keep exploring this whole process.


Q & A

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  1. How did you get involved with your respective sport?: I got involved in climbing through a summer camp in 2006 at the newly opened momentum sandy in UT. I played a lot of other sports growing up, but as soon as I stepped onto the wall I realized the many levels of challenge climbing posed and was immediately hooked. Being a scrawny little eleven year old I fit right into the youth climbing scene. My nickname all throughout my youth climbing career was Sméagol, (Character from Lord of the Rings) because my climbing style seemed to fit his stature perfectly. Flexible, lengthy, good at crimping, and kind of just scrappy in general all describe my climbing style pretty well.
  2. Who were your influences early in life?: Jeff Pederson. An early steep sport climbing pioneer, avid bolter and developer all throughout UT, Coach, Mentor, and now CEO of Momentum, he guided me as a climber, as a coach, as an athlete, and now as a professional.
  3. What draws you to the outdoors?: More generally, the longevity of the outdoors represents something special to me. Future projects, inspiring lines, new lines to develop all lay waiting out there and it almost as if you must put in the extra effort to access all that potential.
  4. What do you like about SCARPA as a brand?: Ongoing passion and vision to create beautiful, well-designed, technically advanced, sport innovating shoes.
  5. Why do you trust SCARPA products?: As mentioned above the detailed design, and attention to nuance of all their gear but specifically their climbing gear is exceptional. The design component plays a big role as well, one of the mantras that has stuck with me is "look good, climb good" and with SCARPA shoes and gear you are heading in the right direction.
  6. What gets you out of bed on big days?: Spending time with those that share a similar passion and devotion to adventuring out in the wilderness. Knowing that it takes some work to get to the crag and then get to the route or boulder gets me up. Along with some great black coffee.
  7. What is your best excuse for skipping training?: I rarely miss an opportunity to train or rock climb. I prioritize climbing in my life for sure. In terms of climbing over training, any opportunity to go climbing outside will override my training plan for that day!
  8. Favorite recovery/apres beverage?: BCAAs! I live by that shit!
  9. If you had a baseball walkup song, what would it be?: Remember the name - Fort Minor.
  10. What's the last movie that made you cry?: I am incredibly unemotional in that way, I don't think I've ever cried in a movie..
  11. What's your dream trip or expedition?: My dream trip would have to be route development in in Mexico or South America. There is so much good rock down there and putting all that work into developing a route and then sending it is the goal.
  12. What makes a good adventure partner?: Someone who challenges and pushes me to climb stronger and better. Not a bystander to their own climber but rather an intellectual that is going to make me better and what I love to do.
  13. Two truths and a lie: I have a tattoo, I can climb 7A, I have been to Font.

Favorite Scarpa Products

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Favorite Scarpa Products

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From The Scarpa Blog

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From The Scarpa Blog

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