Overall Rating: :
Sensitive doesn’t mean weak at SCARPA – it means to be in touch. And that’s where the Instinct S prevails. The most sensitive rock climbing shoe in the line, this fully Microsuede slipper moves with the foot in the most high demand scenarios but never stretches out—perfect for a training shoe that’s at home on boulders, in the gym or at the local crag. XS Grip 2 rubber sticks like glue and keeps in constant contact with the situation at hand.
SizingSCARPA Sizing Chart
Measure your foot with a ruler, using cm or inches; convert to Euro or US using this chart. If you need mondo sizing, please refer to the SCARPA chart on this page/tab. We recommend you purchase two sizes, the size you think you are plus one .5 size bigger for fit testing at home. As long as the products are in like new condition and the packaging is 100% intact, we will credit you for the returned product.
General fitting rules depend on the product's intended use... follow the appropriate guidelines below for best results.
- The bigger/heavier/more supportive the product, the more you may want to upsize .5 - 1full size. Lighter, softer, more supple shoes can be sized closer to your measured size.
- Note: SCARPA Plastic mountain boots all use UK sizing; UK converts easily: 1 full size smaller than US men's size, 2 sizes smaller than US women's size.
- Try on with appropriate socks for your usage. The bigger the boot, the more appropriate a bigger sock (sounds crazy, huh?)
- If you use orthotics or already have aftermarket footbeds, measure against the standard footbed in boot. Fit into boot for sizing/fitting the boot.
- Best to try on at the end of the day when your feet are larger/swollen, than when your feet are fresh to ensure good fit after a long day.
- Lacing can play an incredibly important part of a good fit. Be sure to play with lacing when analyzing fit.
- Make sure your heel isn't slipping.
- Make sure your toes aren't hitting the end.
**Approach shoes may be sized smaller for performance purposes but beware... small shoes are really uncomfortable on the trail.
Rock climbing shoes
- From your measured size, you'll want to consider downsizing .5 - 2 full sizes. The flatter the shoe, the closer to your measured size; the more downturned/aggressive the shoe, the more you'll want to downsize.
- The best fit is comparative between sizes and only you will be able to judge that, though an experience climber could offer good insights to your fit.
- If it feels painful, it may break in... or it may not.
- Pain sucks as a rule of thumb though and makes climbing miserable.
- Only you can judge what's 'acceptable' discomfort.
- Good fitting rock shoes shouldn't necessarily be 'comfortable' by walking/running shoe standards.
- Look for looseness/bagginess in the toes and heel. Bagginess can mean 'slop' when climbing with feet perspiring, etc.
- Toes should completely fill the toebox.
- Heel should feel solid; like they won't pull off if heel hooking.
- Any foot movement in new shoes will mean sloppy fit when broken in.
- From your measured foot, convert to US size using the scale. Translate the US size to Mondo size using the SCARPA mondo scale (not 'true' mondo conversion)
- Shell fit: taking liner out of the shell and inserting foot, toes touching end of shell but completely flat.
- Should have 1.5 - 2 fingers of space behind heel and heel of shell (between 14mm - 20mm)
- Too little space = go up one shell
- Too much space = go down one shell
- If not sure... fit test BOTH shell sizes
- Put on a ski sock for gosh sake!
- Use and orthotic? Put it the boot (after taking out the standard footbed).
- Put foot in boot AND BUCKLE IT! You can not tell a boot fit without buckling it
- This will pull your heel back into the heel pocket, relieving cramped toe space
- Boots do pack out! A 'comfy' fit when new will mean slop later.
- Regardless, your toes should NOT be pressed against the end of the liner
- Get your Intuition liners molded! This provides THE BEST FIT available.
- Any minor pressure points or space will be eliminated by molding
- Find an experience SCARPA dealer for fitting/molding
- Boot fitting is an incredible service and generally requires a service fee of varying amounts... it's worth it though!
More good information fitting available here.
- Midsole: Tenoflex
- Sole: Vibram® XS Grip2; 3mm
- Last: FQ
- Sizes: 34 - 45 (half sizes)
- Weight: 230g; 8.1oz
- Color: Lite Orange
- Product Code: 70010/000
Submit A Review
Anonymous Feb 13, 2014
Bouldering and gym shoe of choice -- snug fit and easy on/off, they perform well on all angles.
Jesse Huey Oct 30, 2013
Super comfortable and high performance slippers. Extremely sensitive and edge very well. Overall they perform great on generally everything. I love using these primarily in the gym and on sport climbs that I know quite well. They slip on and off in seconds and seem to stay a good fit even after a lot of use. In some respects, the more you use them the better they get, and they resole really well.
Anonymous Dec 31, 2012
Absolutely, without a doubt, the best climbing shoe I have ever worn. Precision is out of this world thanks to the incredible sensitivity. edges very well, especially for such a thin sole. I have used Evolvs before, and am never going back.
Anonymous Jul 2, 2012
The Instinct S is the best shoe I have ever worn. After climbing exclusively in 5.10 Dragons and Sportiva Solutions for nearly 4 years, I was skeptical to branch out and try a new shoe. I have had two pairs now and have used them at multiple bouldering destinations and for training sessions indoors. They are much more sensitive and precise than either of the two shoes aforementioned, affording a great sense of awareness on the wall. They stretch minimally--just enough to conform perfectly to your foot like a pair of socks. And what is more, Scarpa has successfully reconciled the desire for comfort with the need for performance. The Instinct S is exponentially more comfortable than the 5.10 Dragon and slightly more-so than the Sportiva Solution. My _only_ qualm is that they wear out quickly. (However, I'm 6'2 and a buck 80, so maybe my body type is more to blame for such quick wear). Unfortunately this is an inevitable trade-off for 3 mm of rubber and such a powerful toe-box. In light of their indisputably superior performance this sacrifice is well worth it, so long as one has the money to buy shoes more often.
Anonymous Jul 2, 2012
By far the most sensitive shoe I've climbed in. For a slipper you can easily heel hook and receive all the benefits of a lace or velcro shoe because of the full Lorica upper. Highly recommended for an all around climbing shoe.
- Anonymous Feb 13, 2014