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The award-winning Instinct is a performance all-arounder. Its downturned design allows purchase on holds that are otherwise nonexistent, whether it’s high-angle sport climbs, or bouldering test pieces. This everyday workhorse utilizes suede uppers in a lace-up design that molds to the foot, offering control and support for routes that demand precision and edging power. Bi-tension randing, which actively pulls power from the toes, rather than cramming your toes painfully forward, gives performance with less tension. On the sole, Vibram® XS Edge rubber melds excellent grip with good durability and edge hold.
SizingSCARPA Sizing Chart
Measure your foot with a ruler, using cm or inches; convert to Euro or US using this chart. If you need mondo sizing, please refer to the SCARPA chart on this page/tab. We recommend you purchase two sizes, the size you think you are plus one .5 size bigger for fit testing at home. As long as the products are in like new condition and the packaging is 100% intact, we will credit you for the returned product.
General fitting rules depend on the product's intended use... follow the appropriate guidelines below for best results.
- The bigger/heavier/more supportive the product, the more you may want to upsize .5 - 1full size. Lighter, softer, more supple shoes can be sized closer to your measured size.
- Note: SCARPA Plastic mountain boots all use UK sizing; UK converts easily: 1 full size smaller than US men's size, 2 sizes smaller than US women's size.
- Try on with appropriate socks for your usage. The bigger the boot, the more appropriate a bigger sock (sounds crazy, huh?)
- If you use orthotics or already have aftermarket footbeds, measure against the standard footbed in boot. Fit into boot for sizing/fitting the boot.
- Best to try on at the end of the day when your feet are larger/swollen, than when your feet are fresh to ensure good fit after a long day.
- Lacing can play an incredibly important part of a good fit. Be sure to play with lacing when analyzing fit.
- Make sure your heel isn't slipping.
- Make sure your toes aren't hitting the end.
**Approach shoes may be sized smaller for performance purposes but beware... small shoes are really uncomfortable on the trail.
Rock climbing shoes
- From your measured size, you'll want to consider downsizing .5 - 2 full sizes. The flatter the shoe, the closer to your measured size; the more downturned/aggressive the shoe, the more you'll want to downsize.
- The best fit is comparative between sizes and only you will be able to judge that, though an experience climber could offer good insights to your fit.
- If it feels painful, it may break in... or it may not.
- Pain sucks as a rule of thumb though and makes climbing miserable.
- Only you can judge what's 'acceptable' discomfort.
- Good fitting rock shoes shouldn't necessarily be 'comfortable' by walking/running shoe standards.
- Look for looseness/bagginess in the toes and heel. Bagginess can mean 'slop' when climbing with feet perspiring, etc.
- Toes should completely fill the toebox.
- Heel should feel solid; like they won't pull off if heel hooking.
- Any foot movement in new shoes will mean sloppy fit when broken in.
- From your measured foot, convert to US size using the scale. Translate the US size to Mondo size using the SCARPA mondo scale (not 'true' mondo conversion)
- Shell fit: taking liner out of the shell and inserting foot, toes touching end of shell but completely flat.
- Should have 1.5 - 2 fingers of space behind heel and heel of shell (between 14mm - 20mm)
- Too little space = go up one shell
- Too much space = go down one shell
- If not sure... fit test BOTH shell sizes
- Put on a ski sock for gosh sake!
- Use and orthotic? Put it the boot (after taking out the standard footbed).
- Put foot in boot AND BUCKLE IT! You can not tell a boot fit without buckling it
- This will pull your heel back into the heel pocket, relieving cramped toe space
- Boots do pack out! A 'comfy' fit when new will mean slop later.
- Regardless, your toes should NOT be pressed against the end of the liner
- Get your Intuition liners molded! This provides THE BEST FIT available.
- Any minor pressure points or space will be eliminated by molding
- Find an experience SCARPA dealer for fitting/molding
- Boot fitting is an incredible service and generally requires a service fee of varying amounts... it's worth it though!
More good information fitting available here.
- Upper: Suede
- Midsole: Flexan
- Sole: Vibram® XS Edge; 4mm
- Last: FQ
- Sizes: 34 - 45 (half sizes)
- Weight: 224g; 7.9oz (1/2 pair size 40)
- Color: Parrot
- Product Code: 70033/000.3
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Anonymous Jun 1, 2014
The Instinct lace provides me with supreme edging performance in a still-sensitive shoe. I love that I can still feel what I'm standing on, but not feel concerned about rolling off of edges. Definitely a top shoe choice for me for vertical and slightly overhanging, more technical/edging climbing terrain.
Jesse Huey Oct 30, 2013
The Instinct Lace Up is my go to shoe. It fits a wider foot and is incredibly sensitive while being stiff enough for the toughest edging I have had to do. I use these shoes for anything that is at my limit including extremely long days. One of the best features of these shoes is that they perform really well without having to fit them too tight. They are amazing don't think twice about them! If they seem wide for your foot, try out the Vapor Lace ups. They are similar but made for those with less wide feet. Awesome shoes for Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing or Bouldering.
Tyler Willcutt Oct 3, 2013
The Instincts are designed to turn tiny edges into solid foot placements. You will never look at foot holds the same way again. This stiff shoe offers you the precision and stability you need to finish off your project. For vertical climbing, there isn't a better shoe on the market.
Anonymous Aug 23, 2012
Picked up a pair last year and the fit is impressive. Snug but not painful. Powerful toe position. Unlined leather surprising did not stretch much, must be the stitching. Broke in nicely after about 10 pitches.
- Anonymous Jun 1, 2014