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Built for experts who demand technical exactitude, the Instinct VS combines sensitivity and power to create a versatile tool for bouldering or hard sport routes. Powerful Bi-tension randing with all Microsuede construction allows the shoe to dynamically adjust to different kinds foot flexion with no residual stretch. This means top performance for bouldering with longevity, all with surprising comfort. The Instinct VS’s strong, slipper like top offers enhanced control, power and fit thanks to a single, floating hook-and-loop powerstrap over a slipper-like elastic band. The two-part sole allows the front and back of the foot to work independently for dynamic maneuverability.
SizingSCARPA Sizing Chart
Measure your foot with a ruler, using cm or inches; convert to Euro or US using this chart. If you need mondo sizing, please refer to the SCARPA chart on this page/tab. We recommend you purchase two sizes, the size you think you are plus one .5 size bigger for fit testing at home. As long as the products are in like new condition and the packaging is 100% intact, we will credit you for the returned product.
General fitting rules depend on the product's intended use... follow the appropriate guidelines below for best results.
- The bigger/heavier/more supportive the product, the more you may want to upsize .5 - 1full size. Lighter, softer, more supple shoes can be sized closer to your measured size.
- Note: SCARPA Plastic mountain boots all use UK sizing; UK converts easily: 1 full size smaller than US men's size, 2 sizes smaller than US women's size.
- Try on with appropriate socks for your usage. The bigger the boot, the more appropriate a bigger sock (sounds crazy, huh?)
- If you use orthotics or already have aftermarket footbeds, measure against the standard footbed in boot. Fit into boot for sizing/fitting the boot.
- Best to try on at the end of the day when your feet are larger/swollen, than when your feet are fresh to ensure good fit after a long day.
- Lacing can play an incredibly important part of a good fit. Be sure to play with lacing when analyzing fit.
- Make sure your heel isn't slipping.
- Make sure your toes aren't hitting the end.
**Approach shoes may be sized smaller for performance purposes but beware... small shoes are really uncomfortable on the trail.
Rock climbing shoes
- From your measured size, you'll want to consider downsizing .5 - 2 full sizes. The flatter the shoe, the closer to your measured size; the more downturned/aggressive the shoe, the more you'll want to downsize.
- The best fit is comparative between sizes and only you will be able to judge that, though an experience climber could offer good insights to your fit.
- If it feels painful, it may break in... or it may not.
- Pain sucks as a rule of thumb though and makes climbing miserable.
- Only you can judge what's 'acceptable' discomfort.
- Good fitting rock shoes shouldn't necessarily be 'comfortable' by walking/running shoe standards.
- Look for looseness/bagginess in the toes and heel. Bagginess can mean 'slop' when climbing with feet perspiring, etc.
- Toes should completely fill the toebox.
- Heel should feel solid; like they won't pull off if heel hooking.
- Any foot movement in new shoes will mean sloppy fit when broken in.
- From your measured foot, convert to US size using the scale. Translate the US size to Mondo size using the SCARPA mondo scale (not 'true' mondo conversion)
- Shell fit: taking liner out of the shell and inserting foot, toes touching end of shell but completely flat.
- Should have 1.5 - 2 fingers of space behind heel and heel of shell (between 14mm - 20mm)
- Too little space = go up one shell
- Too much space = go down one shell
- If not sure... fit test BOTH shell sizes
- Put on a ski sock for gosh sake!
- Use and orthotic? Put it the boot (after taking out the standard footbed).
- Put foot in boot AND BUCKLE IT! You can not tell a boot fit without buckling it
- This will pull your heel back into the heel pocket, relieving cramped toe space
- Boots do pack out! A 'comfy' fit when new will mean slop later.
- Regardless, your toes should NOT be pressed against the end of the liner
- Get your Intuition liners molded! This provides THE BEST FIT available.
- Any minor pressure points or space will be eliminated by molding
- Find an experience SCARPA dealer for fitting/molding
- Boot fitting is an incredible service and generally requires a service fee of varying amounts... it's worth it though!
More good information fitting available here.
- Midsole: Flexan
- Sole: Vibram® XS Edge; 3mm
- Last: FQ
- Sizes: 36 - 45 (half sizes)
- Weight: 215g; 7.6oz (1/2 pair size 40)
- Color: Black/Orange
- Product Code: 70013/000
Submit A Review
Anonymous Mar 2, 2014
One of the best shoes I have worn to date! You'll see Alex Puccio winning some ABS Nationals and rocking these, so let that be a testament. They perform better than my old Forces, Feroces, and Vapor V's. Better than Tenaya Ra's. On par with Solutions. I went 1.5 sizes below my street shoe, but maybe could have gone two based on my foot measurements. Don't know how much these stretch yet, but I have heard/read only up to 1/3 of a size. My street shoes are 9 & 1/2(42.5), with my left measuring a size 9(42) barefoot and my right an 8 & 1/2(41.5). I ordered these in a size 8(41), and they are a little painful... but only after a long session or having them on for too many problems. Also, they may turn your feet orange :P The XS Edge is great so far and almost as sticky as the XS Grip 2 I feel with of course increased durability. Doesn't make sense really, but Scarpa's Vibram rubber feels stickier than the same La Sportiva Vibram rubber to me. The toe box is really nice, especially with the rubber on top and fairly wide for some comfort even when super tight. I understand this is one of the lowest volume heels offered by Scarpa, even a little more so than the Boostic. I have had a couple other pairs of Scarpas and the toe box always fits great, super snug... but my heel always has dead space, which means of course they may not fit my foot quite right. These are improved and the heel is well done although for me there is still only a little dead space. I may need to try downsizing another 1/2 in the future to snug up the heel even more. They are not broke in yet though, so still unsure if I could bear it. Best to date for Scarpa for sure if great heels and bouldering are your thing. Can't wear Five Ten or Evolv really... La Sportiva seems to have the most narrow heels/least dead space I have tried. These are definitely up there with the Solutions. They might perform just as good and maybe better in some aspects. They are more versatile I feel and better on plastic than the Solutions. The heel is more sensitive and the rubber feels less clunky initially because of the 3mm edge vs 4mm grip2 on Solutions. All in all, great work. Plus they look sweet to boot. You may just get some compliments or people asking what brand/model of shoe you're wearing like I did. Hope this helps some make a decision to get them and with sizing. Go 1 size down from your street shoes(not barefoot size) for a nicer, lax fit or 1.5-2 for redpointing/climbing at your own limit. So yeah, basically get them... They're sweet!!!
Anonymous Mar 2, 2014
These shoes are great! I sized them down a size and a half from my street shoes.
Anonymous Feb 13, 2014
These are the best climbing shoes I've ever worn...to the point that when I tried to put on an older, much-loved pair of shoes, I discovered that they didn't feel right. Great for steep climbing & precision edging alike.
Anonymous Nov 28, 2013
I spent the last month rocking these shoes in climbing areas all across Spain. From the steep limestone in Rodellar to the squeezy heel-hooking sandstone of Albarracin and even on the granite eggs of La Pedriza these shoes performed incredibly well right out of the box. I have a really skinny foot and heel and really appreciate the single velcro strap on these slipperesque shoes. Also, the solid rubber on the heel (as opposed to the usual small patch of fabric that most agressive shoes have on the sides of the heels) makes for precision heel-hooking. I sized them down 1.5 euro sizes smaller than my street shoes and they're super-snug. I can wear them between bouldering burns, but have to take them off after a long route.
Anonymous Nov 19, 2013
Got the tip off on these from Dan Beall (V15 climbing beast) , and soo stoked I took his recommendation. The wide foot, and narrow heel is perfect for my foot. They are far more comfortable than my old solutions, the rubber sticks to the tiniest nothings, the heel sticks like a dream. What more can I say. Not that I'll be doing v15's in them any time soon, but nice to know they have that capability.
- Anonymous Mar 2, 2014